Dining with Bedouins in the Sinai Desert

Having ridden camels through the desert plains, climbed up the side of a mountain to get a better view of the dramatic scenery surrounding us and then watched one of the most magical sunsets I’ve ever seen, we gathered round a fire in the middle of a traditional Bedouin camp. As we joined in baking bread, we chatted and sipped a very delicious tea. We were all looking forward to the forthcoming feast.

My camel

Bedouin camel rider

Sunset2

Bedouin fire

The Bedouins, we were told, make money from the sales of the headscarves we had donned prior to our camel ride. We were also shown various herbs and oils as well as some jewellery that was only available from these nomadic tribes, although at this point I decided not to mention that I already owned something identical to at least one of the pieces of jewellery that I had bought in The Gambia in West Africa!

The Bubble Bursts

As the sky darkened, many candles were lit around the camp, adding to the romantic atmosphere. As I sipped a second glass of tea I pondered on what the toilet arrangements might be. With a mixture of amusement, relief and a little disappointment I discovered that the candles weren’t candles at all but electric lights and that the row of lights heading off to one side, lit the path down to the flushing toilets and sinks with running water! The bubble burst. Our desert, dining experience with the Bedouins crashed head long in to the twenty-first century, probably in much the same way as it did when the Bedouin Anisha was visiting brought out his laptop and logged on to Facebook (guest post: Getting to know Jordan’s Bedouins).

Candles

After a delicious meal of numerous dishes, including the best humous I’ve ever had, we were offered hokas to smoke. We declined and instead simply enjoyed the peacefulness of our surroundings.

Star-gazing

Apparently there are very few cloudy nights in the Sinai Desert but we had managed to pick one of them. While this had given us the spectacular sunset it ruined the planned star-gazing which was limited to a quick glimpse, during a break in the clouds, of the moon, Jupiter and four of her moons. Never-the-less it was amazing to see them in such detail. The telescope we were using was the biggest portable one available and it certainly was impressive. Having fallen into conversation with our star-gazing expert we found out that it actually belonged to one of the Bedouins. They had just bought two of them. It appeared on the surface that the Bedouins were relatively poor but I can only imagine how much one of these telescopes cost and, she explained with a smile, it is not uncommon to find an expensive four-wheel drive vehicle or even a limousine tucked out of view from the tourists, behind their tents. They are in fact living very comfortable lives off the tourists and, of course, why shouldn’t they.

Related articles

A camel ride into the desert by Kathryn Burrington

Girls Rights amongst the Bedouins of the Sinai Desert by Kathryn Burrington

Getting to know Jordan’s Bedouins by Anisha Shah

The origins of Middle Eastern Cooking by Diana Viola with Elinoar Moore

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Author:Kathryn Burrington

Travel writer and photographer sharing her joy of discovering new cultures, countries and cuisines. Connect with Kathryn on Google+

11 Responses to “Dining with Bedouins in the Sinai Desert”

  1. TBM
    January 2, 2013 at 3:38 pm #

    I struggled with my internet connection all day. He had wifi there? Wow!

  2. January 1, 2013 at 10:10 pm #

    I suppose it suits us to have people living traditional lives, but who wouldn’t want running water and a functioning toilet?
    Debra Kolkka recently posted..My 2012 in Bagni di LuccaMy Profile

  3. January 1, 2013 at 8:58 pm #

    What a great night! I’ll admit though, having a functioning bathroom is one bubble I don’t mind bursting.
    Shavanna recently posted..Intense Handmade PrintsMy Profile

  4. January 1, 2013 at 7:29 pm #

    Lovely shots – I especially like the one around the campfire. I suppose that’s why it’s called the worldwide web…
    Travelbunny recently posted..My 2012 in PicturesMy Profile

  5. January 1, 2013 at 5:00 pm #

    I love the shots Kat, but the Bedouin whipping out the laptop really gets me giggling. Did he have WiFi?
    Chris Maskell recently posted..2012 in reviewMy Profile

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