In one of my posts last year I told you about the wildlife in The Gambia and how I once found myself stroking a crocodile. That led me to thinking about other foolish things I’ve done while traveling so here is the tale of another misadventure.
Admiring one of the many beautiful temples of Tamil Nadu
Dinner with the Raj
One evening, while touring Tamil Nadu in southern India, a small group of us arranged to have dinner in the palace at Thanjavur with the Raj. We had dressed up in our finest saris (or in my case the only one I had) and hung garlands of jasmine in our hair just as every female from quite a young age does every day here.
As we made our way through the corridors of the 500-year-old palace to the dining hall I imagined that there would be a large number of people attending the dinner. So I was very surprised when I saw only 4 tables each seating 2 people. Feeling a little uncertain of myself I sat down in the nearest available seat. No sooner had I done this than the Raj sat down next to me! I almost went to stand-up again but the Raj kindly gestured for me to stay put.
I was a lot shyer then than I am now and lacking in confidence, so I was rather worried about making small talk with such an important man. I needn’t have worried as he immediately put me at my ease and started telling me about his responsibilities as the Raj.
The first course of soup was served. I was still holding my rather cumbersome camera bag so I thought I’d slip it under the table. As I bent down with my hand on the table, the whole top flipped up sending the bowls of soup flying and spraying the contents over my companion. Oh heck!
The Raj was the personification of grace and good manners and before long we were both seated back down, tucking into fresh bowls of soup.
The next course was served in a traditional manner without plates or cutlery. Instead various delightful curries, rice and accompaniments were placed on a banana leaf in front of me and I had to eat with my hands. Now this was the first time I had tried this and as you can imagine I made a bit of a mess of it. What was worse still, I kept forgetting not to use my left hand which is a very serious breach of etiquette. As in a number of cultures there is a strict rule of only eating with your right hand. Your left hand is used for.. erm.. other things.
It turned out to be a fascinating evening. The palace dancers and musicians entertained us and the Raj explained that both the dancers’ and the musicians’ families had served the palace for many generations each passing on the skill and knowledge to the next generation. There were a great many such families that depended on the palace for their homes and livelihood. The Raj was responsible for them all, maintaining their homes, providing health care and access to an education. He talked about his hopes and his dreams and his other responsibilities and how he had to lead by example and live a very moral life. It was a wonderful evening which I shall never forget, despite the rocky start.
By the time I left India I was quite used to eating with my hands or rather my right hand. The problem now was that I was too used to it. Not long after I was back in England I went to a wonderful restaurant in Brick Lane in London, an area well-known for its Indian cuisine. About half way through the meal I completely forgot about my knife and fork and started eating my rice and curry with my hand. My date stopped eating and stared at me. I realised what I was doing. He looked mortified. The waiters looked horrified. I didn’t turn around to see if any of the other guests noticed! I sat there blushing and carried on with my meal.
Photograph courtesy of Annie OwenRelated Articles
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What a great experience! You’ve just reminded me that I recently attended a family meal in an Indian restaurant, where I ate with my hand and didn’t think anything of it. It wouldn’t occur to me to do it in any other kind of restaurant, but naan bread and curries just scream out for fingers rather than forks. I learned that way of eating in Pakistan and I naturally associate food from the Indian subcontinent with not using cutlery, just as you did. I can imagine the horror on your date’s face though. :-s
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Hi Lorna, Glad to hear it is not just me then!
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Wow, I”d like to know how one gets a dinner date with a Raj! What an awesome experience. Flub and all. As for eating with hands– I love eating with my hands. I feel like food just tastes better.
Christine recently posted..Surviving a last-minute trip: Things I did well and things I didn’t (Pt 3 of 4)
It was a fascinating experience. ‘Flub’ that’s a new expression for me. I guessed what it meant (but I did look it up just to check!) A few people have said how food tastes better using your hands. It is adding another sensation to the experience, namely the feel of the food in your hands before you eat it.
Kathryn Burrington recently posted..Cabo Verde Urban Photography #FriFotos
Quite an adventure Kat
Had heard of the Jaipur royals dining with tourists, didn’t know the Tanjavur Raja did it too!
Madhu recently posted..The Cleansing Waters Of The Temizuya
I had such an amazing time, both times I visited India. Both were ‘holidays of a lifetime’ that I will never forget. I have dug out my old photos (on film rather than digital) and will be sharing them when I get the chance.
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Yes, eating with one hand is a skill. I have yet to become even remotely graceful at it…
Jessica Korteman recently posted..Open Travel Diary: Change of Plans
Guess we both need to practice more! (In the privacy of our own homes might be best though.)
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Great story! It would have been cool if your date was just like the Raj and learned to roll with it. Imagine him putting down his knife and fork and joining you. I agree with titabuds, there is a certain satisfaction with eating with your hands. Have you ever tried drinking juice with a spoon like soup?
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Ha ha! That was never going to happen! And no, I’ve never tried drinking juice with a spoon. Sounds as if it might be frustrating!
Glad you enjoyed my story.
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Quite tricky eating with just the one hand. Sympathise about spraying the soup – but what a lovely tale to be able to tell. I’m glad he was so gracious
Suzanne recently posted..Multiples
Me to! If he was cross, he hid it very well.
Kathryn Burrington recently posted..Me, the Raj of Thanjavur and a bowl of soup
Have you still got the sari, Kat?
Johanna Bradley recently posted..Picture the World : Madeira
Of course!
Kathryn Burrington recently posted..Me, the Raj of Thanjavur and a bowl of soup
Let’s forget about the sheer embarrassment of spraying soup over a Raj, hahaha, you must admit, Kat, that notwithstanding horrified dates and such, eating with one’s hands is so much more satisfying.
titabuds recently posted..Uhh…
Yes, you are quite right. Although there is a time and a place I guess!
Kathryn Burrington recently posted..The Raj of Thanjavur and a bowl of soup!
Hi Kat,
Thanks for sharing this misadventure. A fun read and nice to hear that an important man such as The Raj is so open and well-mannered. Growing up in a Muslim country, I am familiar with formalities of eating with your hands and had to smile about the comment about the left-hand.
Hi Diana, Glad you enjoyed it. You can imagine how embarrassed I was when the soup went flying but the Raj was very charming.
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