Earlier this Spring I spent a few days in Puglia (Apulia), southern Italy among other things learning about the wonderful cuisine of the area. As Leonardo Di Bari, head chef at the Borgobianco Resort and Spa where I was staying explained, essentially Puglian cuisine can be defined as both “poor” and “rich” in that the principle ingredients simply came from the earth and the Puglian people added value to those ingredients and so the food became “rich”.

Focaccia bread and caciovallo cheese – seriously moreish!

Preparing sea-urchins fresh from the sea

Both pasta and bread are important in this unpretentious diet and one of my favourite traditional dishes served at the hotel was simply focaccia bread with cherry tomatoes and the lightly spiced Puglian cheese caciovallo. Another great accompaniment to focaccia bread, I’m told, are the sea urchins which you can see being collected at the village of San Vito, a few miles away. The café Giselda overlooking the little fishing harbour here is the perfect place to try this local dish, fresh from the sea and served raw with focaccia! I’ve tried sea-urchins before in Senegal and took a serious dislike to them, however, I was assured, that those caught here are delicious, so much so that I was actually disappointed when we were told we were too early and I didn’t get to try them myself (so the jury is still out on this for me!)

We couldn’t hang around as we were off to Polignano for lunch at the delightful restaurant, Infermento, where chef Marcello had prepared a hearty six course lunch for us – potato omelette, cheeses, various breads, pasta, and we hadn’t even got to the main course! And each course was washed down with a specially selected artisan beer to compliment the dish being served as chosen by our host, Giuseppe.

Burnt wheat bread and hand-rolled cavatelli pasta at Infermento in Polignano a Mare

An unusual traditional Northern Puglian ingredient in some bread that I came across during this visit is burnt wheat flour. The tradition arose when, after the farmers had burnt their fields, peasants collected wheat from the burnt stubbs and mixed it with white flour to make it go further. Today the wheat is toasted, rather than burnt, to produce a black flour with a distinct almost nutty flavour.

As well as delicious breads the region prides itself on its hand-made pasta, such as orecchiette (little ear-shaped shells) or cavatelli (small rolled-up shells) made with durum wheat – each piece is rolled by hand unlike many of the pastas typical of other areas which are made by machines. surprisingly eggs, which were once considered a luxury, are not used in traditional pasta of this region.

Later that day back at the Borgobianco hotel another six course evening meal was being prepared for us. The hotel serves a mixture of traditional Puglian and international cuisine all beautifully presented, using ingredients from a variety of small local producers who provide wonderfully fresh vegetables, fish, meat and cheese as well as olive oil and flour (white and burnt wheat flour). Indeed Puglia is very much an agricultural area producing much of Italy’s finest olive oil and wines.

Red mullet fillets with white pepper, rosemary and wild chicory – lovely to look at as well as to eat

The rocky interior is good sheep-farming country and lamb is commonly featured on menus and traditionally served at festivals. This also means that many of the regions cheeses are made from sheep’s milk. Puglia’s long coastline and strong fishing tradition provides an abundance of fresh seafood including red mullet, anchovies and mussels. The region also produces vast quantities of almonds which are used abundantly in desserts.

An extremely tasty mixed grill of Puglian meats with rocket salad

The superb array of quality fresh local produce mixed with a home-cooking tradition gives Puglian food its simple country character that is so full of goodness and natural flavour. Admittedly I only have to look at food and I put on weight but never-the-less I am ashamed to admit I put on 5 pounds in weight during my few days in Puglia – not because the food was particularly fattening, it’s just that I was offered so much of it and it was so very delicious that it was hard to say no! And of course I wanted to try everything that this wonderful region of Italy had to offer, including the home-made ice-creams, fine wines and great locally produced beers. Puglian cuisine does not yet get the international recognition it deserves and, although I did lose the weight I had gained (eventually) once I was home again, it is just as well I was only there a few days!

A huge thank you to chefs Leo and Marcello for delighting my taste buds (and expanding my waistline).

While staying at the Borgobianco Resort and Spa in Puglia last month, Laure, from the hotel, was kind enough to show me around the nearby town of Polignano a Mare – first stop – the workshop of Peppino Campanella.

On Via Conversano, perched on the cliff tops overlooking the Adriatic on Italy’s west coast, is the home and workshop of one of the town’s many famous sons.

As I walked out of the dazzling sunlight into the shaded interior, one by one a host of sparkling lights greeted me as each was brought to life with a flick of a switch. These exquisite works of art adorned the walls and hung down from the ceilings all around me as Peppino, sat in the corner, quietly polishing a piece of glass.

Peppino trained and worked as an architect but having made a friend a stunning light as a gift, requests from friends and relatives for more hand-crafted lights came flooding in and slowly the one took over from the other until he made his living entirely from producing these dramatic lighted glass sculptures. Peppino sees glass as “solid water” and admires its ability to transmit light. His aim is to create atmosphere, evoking elements of nature rather than to illuminate a room.

The birth-place of many renowned artists and musicians, including the singer Domenico Modugno, Polignano is to this day also renowned for producing some of Italy’s finest ice-cream for which the name Campanella is also associated thanks to Peppino’s grandfather who was renowned for making the very best. He passed on his knowledge to other members of the community who keep the tradition alive today and every Sunday residents of the nearby city of Bari still flock to Poliganano for an ice-cream at Mario Campanella “Il Super Mago del Gelo” opposite the gateway in to the old town or Bar Turismo, Traversa Pompeo Sarnelli, 7, which is now reputed to have the best.

15 years ago, Peppino, transformed his grandfather’s ice-cream parlour into his studio where I now admired the most stunning collection of lights I have ever seen. In high demand from exclusive hotels and the finest shopping emporiums, as well as private homes, the name Campanella is now equally famous for these works of art as for the art of making ice-cream.

In the studio fascinating sculptures by Simone Bellotti from Bologne can also be viewed including a stunning dragon standing sentinel on the cliff top terrace looking over Polignano’s bay possibly on the lookout for the infamous pirates that used to raid these shores.

I must admit I am quite envious of Peppino. Not only is he able to make a living from doing something he really loves but he is able to work in the most stunning setting. From the studio large double doors open on to the terrace overlooking the bay of Polignano as the dragon will attest to – a truly stunning location. Peppino is currently transforming the rooms above his studio into a home and with the same stunning views as the terrace I can only imagine it will be a delight to live there whether enjoying the Italian summer sunshine (while enjoying a scoop or two of home-made ice-cream) or watching the waves crash against the cliffs below during a winter storm.

When I was invited to come on a press visit by Borgobianco Resort & Spa, a luxurious hotel in Puglia, I couldn’t believe my luck! While I’d been on numerous photographic assignments this would be my first freelance trip. What a treat!

And so when the day came I packed my camera kit, pen and note-book and flew off to Bari airport via Milan feeling excited and, ssh… don’t tell anyone, just a little nervous.

At Bari I met up with Sage Russell from Food Pilgrimage and we were greeted by the driver from the hotel. Soon we were on our way and once outside Bari’s conurbation we were passing fields of ancient, twisted and gnarled olive trees, interspersed with blossoming almond trees rising from a carpet of vivid orange and yellow wild flowers. Every now and again, partly hidden by the trees, we’d spot a tumbled-down trulli, the traditional cone-shaped buildings unique to Puglia; a  beautiful part of Italy, yet to be discovered by mass tourism.

Pretty country lanes lead to the hotel which is a few miles inland from the lovely seaside town of Polignano a Mare. The fields of wild flowers and olive groves make an enchanting setting for the grand, white-stone hotel that nestles comfortably within its surroundings. You would never guess that it was built just 4 years ago as it was designed with the local architectural traditions and building materials in mind, in the style of the local masseria, the rather grand farm houses of the area.

On arrival we receive a warm greeting from Laure who arranged the press trip. Originally from France, she came to Polignano for a two week holiday. She felt so at home here she decided to stay!

Passing a spacious courtyard with a shaded seating area and a tinkling fountain, I am shown to my delightful room with doors leading out to my own terrace overlooking the gardens. It is decorated all in white, as is the entire hotel, creating a cool and relaxing atmosphere throughout. With indoor and outdoor swimming pools (with heated hydro massage pool), spa with sauna, steam room and gym, 48 rooms and suites, 2 meeting rooms and free Wi-Fi this beautiful hotel really has a lot to offer.

After un-packing I have a couple of hours to relax. My room is perfect with a spacious wardrobe, desk, comfy chair, flat screened TV and mini-bar. In the en-suite bathroom, everything I could possibly need is provided including a pretty matching set of body wash, moisturiser, shampoo and conditioner. The heated towel rail keeps the fluffy white towels and robe continually warm and dry. There is even a pair of slippers in the wardrobe.

We are offered an aperitif before dinner. Cosimo, our bartender and an expert at creating the most delicious cocktails with a unique flair and charm, readily suggests one of his favourites for me to try. My Aperol sour really hits the spot.

Upstairs in the restaurant the hotel’s head chef, Leonardo, has selected a special 6 course dinner to show off the best of all that the hotel and the region has to offer. Red mullet, scampi risotto and ‘slowly cooked’ shi drum (a fish, previously unknown to me) are on the menu, followed by two desserts! Cosimo, who is our waiter for the evening, recommends a  Tormaresca Chardonnay, to compliment our meal. I can see that the next few days are going to be a serious set back for my diet. Never mind. Needs must!

My stay at Borgobianco is just for a few days but I have a massage in the hotel’s spa booked and a tour of Polignano to look forward to. Plus we’ll be visiting the beautiful Alberobello, with its famous trulli lined streets, the little harbour at San Vito, the medieval town of Ostuni (known as The White City), and the stunning cave system at Castellana Grote.

And the weather, although a little chilly in the evenings, is a sunny 20 degrees plus during the day – perfect for exploring Puglia. What more could I ask for?

Having just got back today from a wonderful press trip as the guest of BorgoBianco Resort and Spa this week’s travel snap is a sneak peek of some forthcoming posts.

I’d like to share with you all that I’ve discovered about Puglia, a lesser known region of Italy, including exploring the enchanting town of Polignano a Mare perched on the clifftops overlooking Italy’s Adriatic coast and of course the beautiful 5 star hotel where I stayed.

I’ve met some wonderful and fascinating people including two fabulous chefs, a ‘light’ artist and a fascinating philosopher/poet. I’ve eaten lots of delicious food from delicate fish dishes to tasty foccacia bread and cheese plus exceedingly good vegetable dishes and succulent meats. I’ve been introduced to some excellent wines and great locally produced beers. Plus I’ve seen amazing sights including the beautiful trulli of Alberobello and the stunning cave system of Castellana Grotte but first I’ll simply tease you with a glimpse of Polignano from the bridge of the Via Traiana, an ancient Roman road that runs along the coast here.

Polignano a Mare

Last October terrible floods and mud slides devastated parts of the Liguria region of Italy, in particular two of the famous Cinque Terre villages, Monterosso and Vernazza.

I visited them both whilst staying in the nearby medieval town of Portovenere. I was deeply sadden when I heard about it, not on the news but through a comment on my blog  from an Italian friend.

Portovenere has been listed as number 45 of The New York Times 45 Places to go to in 2012 and I whole heartedly agree and while you are there do make time to visit the villages of the Cinque Terre.

Pictures of the devastation after the floods can be seen on the website aid.cinqueterre.com

Read about my visit in my post Portovenere, the Cinque Terre and heaps of spaghetti with pesto

The nearest airport to Portovenere is Pisa, but Genova and Florence are also within easy reach.

For more information about staying in Portovenere visit Virtual Tourist

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While rummaging around in some boxes in the attic, I recently discovered some old postcards, photographs, notes and recipes that I had collected while working in Italy photographing holiday homes. As I sat there reminiscing, memories came flooding back of breathtaking scenery, seriously delicious food, wonderful people, smart towns and pretty villages…  and I felt compelled to share with you my memories of some very special places. The first being Monticatini Alto in Tuscany…

Nestled on a hill-top, overlooking the spa town of Monticatini Terme (on the Florence-Lucca railway line), is the enchanting medieval village of Monticatini Alto. Its ancient wall fortifications once had seven entrance gates. Sadly only one now remains the “Porta di Borgo” next to the historic church and convent with its clock tower looking over the village square. When I arrived at the B&B I had been booked into I could already see that Monticantini Alto was going to be an enchanting place to stay. The B&B had an elegant yet informal atmosphere and the equally enchanting owner gave me a key to the backdoor so I could come and go as I pleased via an alley that led to the square. I really felt I’d found a home from home, such a shame it was for only one night!

My room was very spacious with a four poster bed and an animal print theme to the decor that would not be to my usual taste but some how here it actually worked. After settling in, I went out for a bite to eat in Piazza Giústi – a really delightful square with a host of brightly painted restaurants all offering a great choice of Tuscan dishes. I explored for a while checking out the restaurants and some of the other beautiful old buildings.

Returning to the square I decided upon a lovely looking restaurant, La Torre, which I was informed by the proud owners, was established in 1951. On its menu I found such wonderful delights as white bean soup with porcini mushrooms, chickpea soup with olive oil, aged ricotta cheese served on a bed of ruccola (rocket) with roasted pine nuts and a drizzle of balsamic vinegar. I tucked into their scrumptious ravioli with ruccola and porcini mushrooms.

In one of the restaurants opposite, a lively group kept bursting into song. Singing in three-part harmonies, they gave a delightful, unexpected, informal performance.

As I was finishing my meal, I noticed a lot of people wondering into the square. When I remarked on this, my waiter explained that the funicular railway had just arrived. This climbs up and down the hillside linking the village with the town below – a popular and convenient mode of transport for the locals (and no doubt tourists) when they wish to dine in the outstanding restaurants of Moticatini Alto in this magical little square.

In the morning I got up early and explored the centre of the village, a wonderful place for photography. Sadly after breakfast I was on my way but I’ve always remembered Monticatini Alto as a very special place and I really hope that I can return there one day.

Tuscan cuisine… a few notes
Porcini mushrooms are a very popular, but expensive, Tuscan favourite.They are collected locally especially in the Garfagnana region north of Lucca from October onwards, when the weather is still warm but getting damp. However, many porcini mushrooms that are sold as ‘local produce’ are actually imported from other countries.

Rocket is a versatile salad vegetable that is readily available from good supermarkets but is also easy to grown from seeds in the garden or patio tub. The dandelion-like leaves have a nutty flavour and can be used raw in salads (the young leaves are best for this) or cooked with rice or pasta dishes to which it will add a slightly spicy flavour.

They can also be fried, very briefly,and served as an accompaniment to a chop or steak as in the recipe, Manzo con Ruccola. Rocket is also used in a variation of Genoese Pesto and the seeds can be used to season a dish in place of mustard seed.

Manzo con Ruccola – Steak with rocket
A simple dish that is easy to prepare.

Ingredients:per person:
1 sirloin steak
a clove of garlic
a sprig of rosemary
1 tbsp of virgin olive oil
1 black pepper corn
freshly ground black pepper
a handful of rocket
3 or 4 2cm slices of pepper

1. Slice the garlic and mix it with the rosemary, oil and peppercorns.
2. Pour over the meat which should be turned so that it is thoroughly coated. Marinade for at least 10 minutes.
3. Brush the slices of pepper with oil and grill on both sides until the skin starts to turn brown in places.
4. Heat a large frying pan so that it is extremely hot and sear the meat, without cooking fat, for 2 – 6 minutes depending on how rare or well-done you require the steak to be. Make sure you turn the meat regularly to avoid steaming in its own juices as this will make it tough.
5. Just before you finish cooking season with salt and pepper.
6. Cook the rocket quickly in the same hot frying pan for about 1 minute, stirring until the leaves are just wilted. Arrange these either side of the meat and drizzle with a little olive oil. Garnish with the slices of pepper.

If you enjoyed this post you’ll probably also like an earlier post from Italy, Portovenere, the Cinque Terre and heaps of spaghetti with pesto. If you try out any of my recipes or have been to any of these places I’d love to hear from you.

Every year Calvi’s citadel, which was built over 500 years ago, is the stunning setting for Rencontres de Chants Polyphoniques de Calvi.

Although I’ve visited Corsica a number of times, this was the first time I’ve been lucky enough to be there for this festival and I really hope it won’t be the last. The sky was as blue as ever, the sea as crystal clear, the people as friendly and the beer as refreshing but the music…. the music was simply breathtaking!

The festival was hosted by the polyphonic group, A Filleta. Their album Intantu transports me back to Corsica and a wonderful week of live music, from the buskers with their guitars playing gypsy swing at the foot of the citadel to the diverse collection of artists performing throughout the festival.

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Most evenings there were two ticketed events but these were quite pricey and we only went to a couple. On the Saturday afternoon there was also a free concert which sounded interesting although I wasn’t familiar with the acts. I never imagined what a truly unforgettable day this would turn out to be!

On a hot sunny afternoon, on the last day of an already memorable holiday, we climbed the steps of the citadel to Place d’Armes and found a number of craft stalls but no sign of any music!

Following the flow of people from the square down a side alley we came to the 14th century Oratoire and settled into our seats awaiting over 3 hours of live music by artists from Italy,  Mali and Corsica. After a wonderful performance by the Italian singer, Francesca Breschi with her harmonium, accompanied by percussionist Ettore Bonafe, everyone got up and left!

While wondering where the next performance might be, we heard the not so distant sound of a violin and accordion. The duo were playing in the street outside and after a delightful but short performance, a flute led us through the ancient alleyways to a small square, where the Sidikiba Coulibaly Trio from Mali were waiting to entertain us. The crowds soon filled up all the rows of chairs and overflowed onto walls and steps overlooking the little stage. A magical concert followed which delighted the enthusiastic audience.

As the final notes dissipated into the ancient walls, nearby singing reached our ears. Down another alley and up some steps we found another violinist, Maria Zaharia, accompanying Manu Theron (vocals/tammorra) with a lively collection of Occitan songs. After about 20 minutes the duo led us up another street, down passed the cathedral, through the Place d’Armes and back to the Oratoire where they continued their performance. Maria’s fiddling and her infectious smile were a delight and Manu’s vocals were amazing. As they finished they welcomed on to the stage Daniele di Bonaventura with his bandoneon.

We were enjoying the music but didn’t want to miss another concert back at the square, Zi’ Riccardino with Riccardo Abate Esposito (accordion) and Maurillio Tallani et Imma Arguento (vocals and tammorra). Zi’ Riccardino is a delightful character that looks as if he just walked out of a story book from the Brothers Grimm. I only caught the end of his performance as they were singing, playing and dancing down the steps outside the cathedral. His energy and enthusiasm were contagious and it was a joy to watch.

What a wonderful concept! A magical afternoon as one musical delight led into another and took us on a musical tour around the citadel and the festival wasn’t over yet… another free concert that evening – PVC Napoli Quartet’s Neapolitan folk music inspired by magic and mythology. With a stunning backdrop of the mountains across the marina they played tarantellas as the sun went down. We danced and clapped along.

And still the day wasn’t over as we had tickets for the grand finale of the festival and as we waited to go in, a spontaneous and beautiful interlude of polyphonic singing started in the bar opposite the cathedral.

The first half of the concert was a real treat as many of the groups that had performed throughout the festival each did two or three numbers. The polyphonic Ensemble Imeri from Georgia were particularly outstanding.

And to finish… Le Trio Jourban, Palestinian oud trio. The three brothers, who are fourth generation luthiers, and their outstanding percussionist Yousef Hbeisch, interacted skillfully to produce an outstanding and exciting performance of subtle and rich improvisations from their new album AsFãr (journeys). They took my breath away especially when guest vocalist Dhafer Youssef joined them on stage, his haunting vocals perfectly complimenting their beautiful melodies.

The concert ended well after midnight but outside wine and food were being served and the singing continued into the early hours – a wonderful end to the most amazing day!

To see more photos visit Travel with Kat on Flickr

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A Filetta
Le Trio Joubran
Francesca Breschi
Maria Zaharia
Manu Theron – Lo Còr de la Plana
Daniele di Bonaventura
Carlo Faiello from PVC Napoli Quartet

View of Portovenere, while waiting for the boat to Cinque Terre

This delightful medieval town lies on the Golf dei Poeti, to the east of the Liguria region and was once a favourite haunt of the poets Byron and Shelley. It is well worth a visit if you are in the area although it can get very busy at weekends. Named after the goddess of love and protector of fishermen, the town once had a temple dedicated to Venus on top of the promontory that juts out to sea. Long since destroyed the temple has been replaced by a beautiful black and white stripped marble church. This, as was most of Portovenere, was built by the Genoese. The tall pastel houses that line its narrow streets date back to the early 12th century.

The towns Genoese and fishing heritage is reflected in its cuisine. Muscles, prawns, pasta with pesto sauce and focoaccia bread abound and its restaurants are popular with both tourists and locals from the surrounding area.

From Portovenere you can catch a boat to the Cinque Terre (five villages). In fact, up until about 50 years ago this was the only way to reach them. They are now connected by a railway or an arduous and winding route by road. A number of years ago I spent a delightful day hoping on and off the boats which visit each village in turn. Due to the steep cliffs along this stretch of coastline these villages have remained virtually unchanged in appearance over the centuries. Riomaggiore is a particularly picturesque little fishing port. Vernazza is a wonderful setting for some charming restaurants set around the harbour but I stopped for lunch at Monterosso. This is the most northern village, with its long sandy beaches and charming back streets. As I enjoyed a delicious seafood spaghetti sitting on a street-side table watching the world go by I heard the sound of singing. Looking up I saw a couple of young ladies, perched high above me on some scaffolding, singing as they painted traditional tromped’oeil around a window – a magical moment I’ve never forgotten!

My favourite local dish is pasta with pesto, which I have enjoyed a number of times in the wonderful restaurants of Portovenere. Here’s my variation on the traditional recipe.

Vermicelli Genovese Pasta with Pesto
The name of this sauce comes from the Italian for grinding pestatura as it is traditionally made by grinding the ingredients in a mortar and pestle, however, this quick and easy sauce can also be made with a food processor. For a traditional dish omit the leeks and mushrooms.

Ingredients: serves 4
450g vermicelli
1 tbsp pine-nuts
100g fresh basil
50g parmesan or pecorino cheese, grated
2 large garlic cloves
2 leeks
12 mushrooms
5tbsp virgin olive oil
freshly ground black pepper

1. Lightly grill the pine nuts.
2. Peel and coarsely chop the garlic.
3. Wash and coarsely chop the basil, having first removed the stems.
4. Pound the nuts, garlic and basil in the mortar.
5. If need be this can then be transferred into larger bowl and first the cheese and then the oil can be gradually mixed in until you have a smooth paste.
6. Season as required with freshly ground black pepper.
7. Slice and lightly fry the leeks and mushrooms (optional).
8. Cook the pasta, as per the instructions on the packet, until it is al dente.
9. Drain the pasta and thoroughly mix in the sauce
   (plus the fried leeks and mushrooms).
10. Garnish with a few pine nuts, slivers of cheese and a sprig of basil.
11. Enjoy!

Wow! I just had the most amazing weekend in Valenza,  Italy – 2 days of workshops with the London Community Gospel Choir culminating in a concert on Sunday night. It was a real privilege to be a part of this wonderful weekend.

Friday evening was club night and we all headed off to Alessandria to party, the highlight of which was V9 Collective and Annette Bowen singing into the early hours.

The next morning we were all up early, despite the late night, eager to start the workshops. Bazil Meade and his team from LCGC, Waleed, Annette and Christina, were outstanding, teaching a choir formed just for the weekend. This comprised of our hosts, The Joy Singers Choir, and their guests from a number of other Italian gospel choirs plus a handful of overseas guests including myself and Gel from Nyodema’s World Community Choir from England.

Listen to Bazil Meade and LCGC singing one of Bazil’s compositions before teaching it to the workshop group….  ‘Where do I go?’

We learnt a number of inspiring songs, all in three parts as is the tradition with gospel music. Waleed conducted the men, Annette the altos and Christina the sopranos, all overseen by Bazil at the piano. It was wonderful to watch how the LCGC tutors lead and inspired the singers, with such energy and passion that, in no time at all, the singing was sounding amazing. It was fascinating to see how good conductors can lead a choir singing gospel in a free format, where it is not predetermined how many times each part should be repeated, by using visual and oral cues to signify which part of the song should be repeated next and how it should be sung. Each member of the choir had to pay keen attention to the conductor. They worked us hard but it was immensely enjoyable throughout.

Listen to the choir workshop group rehearsing…    “I Feel the Spirit”

Meanwhile other tutors from LCGC were working with another group new to singing gospel and I’m sure they were having as much fun as we were.

By Sunday evening we were ready for the concert held in a beautiful theatre in Valenza. I couldn’t help but grin from ear to ear as we clapped, swayed and sang our hearts out. What a joy! And once our section of the evening had finished we returned to our seats and watched LCGC do what they do best – sing the house down!

Stephanie, Annette, Waleed, Christina and Andrea from the London Community Gospel Choir, Gospel@Valenza 2011