When I received a copy of a new cookbook through the post I eagerly ripped open the parcel, as I’d been looking forward to reading The Gambian Cookbook – Recipes from the Smiling Coast, ever since I’d been asked by the authors to review it.

Bread and coconut cake

My first impression was that this was a comprehensive book about Gambian cooking that was long overdue. Although the cover didn’t exactly shout cookbook to me, looking inside I found enticing recipes about how to cook well known Gambian dishes plus many I’d never heard of before. What particularly struck was the friendly style with which it had been written and the wonderful anecdotes that came with each recipe.

At the front of the book is a useful list of ingredients that the reader might be unfamiliar with giving suitable alternatives. For example, almost every main course recipe includes kani chillies, which are not generally available in the UK, although they are similar to scotch bonnet chillies, which are. Alternatively, ‘Aggy’s Hot Chilli and Spicy Sauce’ can be used to give a more accurate flavour. This and the frequently used Maggi cubes can both be bought online if you can’t find them in your local shops.

I found the last section interesting. Entitled ‘Toubab Dishes’ it shows how European influences have been enveloped into modern Gambian fusion cuisine. I also loved the suggestions on presentation including how to make a colourful tie-dye tablecloth, so typical of The Gambia – wonderful!

A Gambian Feast!

I recently invited a few friends to join me in trying out some of the recipes and we had a Gambian feast for World Food Night.

On the menu…

Pepe chicken soup – a seriously delicious spicy soup and possibly my favourite dish of the day

Domada – chicken in a tasty peanut sauce served with rice

Afra – spicy lamb kebabs, a popular Gambian street food

Banana cake – a yummy, easy to make cake

Bread and coconut cake – an even yummier cake

Banana and lime smoothie – one of the most refreshing drinks I’ve ever tried

Everyone cooked a different dish and we had a great time eating them all. We found the recipes easy to follow, the only criticisms were that there are a few omissions in a couple of recipes where the ‘method’ did not say when to add all the listed ingredients. This wasn’t a problem though and there wasn’t a single dish that wasn’t well received. Below is the recipe for our favourite dish of the day.

Pepe Soup – Chicken

The traditional chicken pepe soup is known as a cure-all and, amongst other things, is said to cure the common cold. Beware though – it packs quite a punch!

Time: 3 hours
Serves: 4
Difficulty: Moderate

Ingredients:
250 grams of tomato concentrate paste
500 grams of chicken, cut in small pieces
2 litres of water
1 tablespoon of black pepper, finely ground*
2 tablespoons of kani chilli, finely chopped*
2 whole kani chillies
1 teaspoon of salt
1 clove of garlic, crushed
2 large Maggi cubes
2 tablespoons of peanut oil

*Far less pepper and chilli was used in the version we tried and while it was hot it was comfortable to eat. How much you add really is a matter of taste but Gambians like it hot!

Method:
1. Mix the black pepper, chopped kani, garlic, and Maggi in a blender and blend until smooth.
2. Heat the oil in a deep pan.
3. Stir fry the chicken until cooked, then add the paste from the blender and the water.
4. Bring to a boil.
5. Simmer until the stock has halved.
6. Add the tomato paste and stir until it has been incorporated into the stock.
7. Add two whole chillies.
8. Simmer for 10 further minutes.
9. Remove the whole chillies (which should be soft but not falling apart).
10. Serve steaming hot, with some crusty bread on the side.

This recipe has been reproduced with permission from “The Gambian Cookbook” (Dec 2011, ISBN 9781-908797-001 – Daryanani and Shah). The Gambian Cookbook can be purchased from leading online booksellers, or if you would like a signed copy from the publishers visit SaharanPress.

This really is a lovely cookbook and is so much more than a collection of great recipes. It gives the reader a wonderful glimpse into Gambian life.

You can read more about Gambian cooking in my recent post ‘Cooking with Ida’.

In last week’s post I had a fascinating chat with Jonathan Groves, the executive chef at the beautiful Ngala Lodge Restaurant in The Gambia, West Africa. He’s kindly shared with us his recipe for this delicious Coconut Créme Brulee which Ngala has featured on the menu since October. It’s been a great hit with the guests. Mind you, I’ve never tasted anything at this restaurant that hasn’t been a huge hit with me!

photograph courtesy of Ngala Lodge

Coconut Créme Brulee

Ingredients: serves 6

8 Egg yolks
30g sugar
1 tin coconut milk (400ml)
100g creamed coconut
400g cream
4 large bananas
sesame seeds and brown sugar to sprinkle on top
sprig of mint to garnish

1. Pre-heat the oven to 150° C (or gas mark 2)

2. Slowly reduce the coconut milk  and the creamed coconut to approx 250g

3. Then add approx 400g cream to make a total 650g

4. Heat slowly until JUST boiling & then remove from heat

5. Whisk the egg yolks and the sugar untill thick and  pale yellow and double in quantity

6. Whisk the coconut and cream mixture into the egg & sugar mixture

7. Place in 6 large ramekins

8. Bake in bain maire for 30-40 mins until just cooked – the middle should still have a wobble when shaken gently

TO SERVE

9. Sprinkle with sesame seeds

10. Cover in a layer of slice of banana

11.  Sprinkle with Brown sugar

12. Warm in the oven

13. Glaze sugar until brown

14. Top with a sprig of mint

and in true Ngala style serve on a banana leaf and a  lemon grass leaf.

If you try any of the recipes on this site I’d love to hear from you. Enjoy!

While rummaging around in some boxes in the attic, I recently discovered some old postcards, photographs, notes and recipes that I had collected while working in Italy photographing holiday homes. As I sat there reminiscing, memories came flooding back of breathtaking scenery, seriously delicious food, wonderful people, smart towns and pretty villages…  and I felt compelled to share with you my memories of some very special places. The first being Monticatini Alto in Tuscany…

Nestled on a hill-top, overlooking the spa town of Monticatini Terme (on the Florence-Lucca railway line), is the enchanting medieval village of Monticatini Alto. Its ancient wall fortifications once had seven entrance gates. Sadly only one now remains the “Porta di Borgo” next to the historic church and convent with its clock tower looking over the village square. When I arrived at the B&B I had been booked into I could already see that Monticantini Alto was going to be an enchanting place to stay. The B&B had an elegant yet informal atmosphere and the equally enchanting owner gave me a key to the backdoor so I could come and go as I pleased via an alley that led to the square. I really felt I’d found a home from home, such a shame it was for only one night!

My room was very spacious with a four poster bed and an animal print theme to the decor that would not be to my usual taste but some how here it actually worked. After settling in, I went out for a bite to eat in Piazza Giústi – a really delightful square with a host of brightly painted restaurants all offering a great choice of Tuscan dishes. I explored for a while checking out the restaurants and some of the other beautiful old buildings.

Returning to the square I decided upon a lovely looking restaurant, La Torre, which I was informed by the proud owners, was established in 1951. On its menu I found such wonderful delights as white bean soup with porcini mushrooms, chickpea soup with olive oil, aged ricotta cheese served on a bed of ruccola (rocket) with roasted pine nuts and a drizzle of balsamic vinegar. I tucked into their scrumptious ravioli with ruccola and porcini mushrooms.

In one of the restaurants opposite, a lively group kept bursting into song. Singing in three-part harmonies, they gave a delightful, unexpected, informal performance.

As I was finishing my meal, I noticed a lot of people wondering into the square. When I remarked on this, my waiter explained that the funicular railway had just arrived. This climbs up and down the hillside linking the village with the town below – a popular and convenient mode of transport for the locals (and no doubt tourists) when they wish to dine in the outstanding restaurants of Moticatini Alto in this magical little square.

In the morning I got up early and explored the centre of the village, a wonderful place for photography. Sadly after breakfast I was on my way but I’ve always remembered Monticatini Alto as a very special place and I really hope that I can return there one day.

Tuscan cuisine… a few notes
Porcini mushrooms are a very popular, but expensive, Tuscan favourite.They are collected locally especially in the Garfagnana region north of Lucca from October onwards, when the weather is still warm but getting damp. However, many porcini mushrooms that are sold as ‘local produce’ are actually imported from other countries.

Rocket is a versatile salad vegetable that is readily available from good supermarkets but is also easy to grown from seeds in the garden or patio tub. The dandelion-like leaves have a nutty flavour and can be used raw in salads (the young leaves are best for this) or cooked with rice or pasta dishes to which it will add a slightly spicy flavour.

They can also be fried, very briefly,and served as an accompaniment to a chop or steak as in the recipe, Manzo con Ruccola. Rocket is also used in a variation of Genoese Pesto and the seeds can be used to season a dish in place of mustard seed.

Manzo con Ruccola – Steak with rocket
A simple dish that is easy to prepare.

Ingredients:per person:
1 sirloin steak
a clove of garlic
a sprig of rosemary
1 tbsp of virgin olive oil
1 black pepper corn
freshly ground black pepper
a handful of rocket
3 or 4 2cm slices of pepper

1. Slice the garlic and mix it with the rosemary, oil and peppercorns.
2. Pour over the meat which should be turned so that it is thoroughly coated. Marinade for at least 10 minutes.
3. Brush the slices of pepper with oil and grill on both sides until the skin starts to turn brown in places.
4. Heat a large frying pan so that it is extremely hot and sear the meat, without cooking fat, for 2 – 6 minutes depending on how rare or well-done you require the steak to be. Make sure you turn the meat regularly to avoid steaming in its own juices as this will make it tough.
5. Just before you finish cooking season with salt and pepper.
6. Cook the rocket quickly in the same hot frying pan for about 1 minute, stirring until the leaves are just wilted. Arrange these either side of the meat and drizzle with a little olive oil. Garnish with the slices of pepper.

If you enjoyed this post you’ll probably also like an earlier post from Italy, Portovenere, the Cinque Terre and heaps of spaghetti with pesto. If you try out any of my recipes or have been to any of these places I’d love to hear from you.

View of Portovenere, while waiting for the boat to Cinque Terre

This delightful medieval town lies on the Golf dei Poeti, to the east of the Liguria region and was once a favourite haunt of the poets Byron and Shelley. It is well worth a visit if you are in the area although it can get very busy at weekends. Named after the goddess of love and protector of fishermen, the town once had a temple dedicated to Venus on top of the promontory that juts out to sea. Long since destroyed the temple has been replaced by a beautiful black and white stripped marble church. This, as was most of Portovenere, was built by the Genoese. The tall pastel houses that line its narrow streets date back to the early 12th century.

The towns Genoese and fishing heritage is reflected in its cuisine. Muscles, prawns, pasta with pesto sauce and focoaccia bread abound and its restaurants are popular with both tourists and locals from the surrounding area.

From Portovenere you can catch a boat to the Cinque Terre (five villages). In fact, up until about 50 years ago this was the only way to reach them. They are now connected by a railway or an arduous and winding route by road. A number of years ago I spent a delightful day hoping on and off the boats which visit each village in turn. Due to the steep cliffs along this stretch of coastline these villages have remained virtually unchanged in appearance over the centuries. Riomaggiore is a particularly picturesque little fishing port. Vernazza is a wonderful setting for some charming restaurants set around the harbour but I stopped for lunch at Monterosso. This is the most northern village, with its long sandy beaches and charming back streets. As I enjoyed a delicious seafood spaghetti sitting on a street-side table watching the world go by I heard the sound of singing. Looking up I saw a couple of young ladies, perched high above me on some scaffolding, singing as they painted traditional tromped’oeil around a window – a magical moment I’ve never forgotten!

My favourite local dish is pasta with pesto, which I have enjoyed a number of times in the wonderful restaurants of Portovenere. Here’s my variation on the traditional recipe.

Vermicelli Genovese Pasta with Pesto
The name of this sauce comes from the Italian for grinding pestatura as it is traditionally made by grinding the ingredients in a mortar and pestle, however, this quick and easy sauce can also be made with a food processor. For a traditional dish omit the leeks and mushrooms.

Ingredients: serves 4
450g vermicelli
1 tbsp pine-nuts
100g fresh basil
50g parmesan or pecorino cheese, grated
2 large garlic cloves
2 leeks
12 mushrooms
5tbsp virgin olive oil
freshly ground black pepper

1. Lightly grill the pine nuts.
2. Peel and coarsely chop the garlic.
3. Wash and coarsely chop the basil, having first removed the stems.
4. Pound the nuts, garlic and basil in the mortar.
5. If need be this can then be transferred into larger bowl and first the cheese and then the oil can be gradually mixed in until you have a smooth paste.
6. Season as required with freshly ground black pepper.
7. Slice and lightly fry the leeks and mushrooms (optional).
8. Cook the pasta, as per the instructions on the packet, until it is al dente.
9. Drain the pasta and thoroughly mix in the sauce
   (plus the fried leeks and mushrooms).
10. Garnish with a few pine nuts, slivers of cheese and a sprig of basil.
11. Enjoy!