I’ve explored many of Puglia’s lovely white-washed towns and villages but one that a great impact on me was Cisternino in the Valle D’Itria, Puglia on the south-east coast of Italy. I arrived with a group of friends but decided to wander off on my own to take some photos and get lost in the alleyways.
Exploring Cisternino
Much like Locorotondo, another equally lovely whitewashed town in the valley, there’s a maze of narrow streets here that invite you ever onwards to see what is around the next corner. There were few people about in these backstreets despite, it being the time when locals go out for their passeggiata, an evening stroll. As I wandered, the sky turning an ever deeper shade of blue, Cisternino took on a magical air. In the stillness, I heard distant laughter and a bell sounding the hour. I sat down for a while simply to enjoy the moment.
I continue my passeggiata. At times the archways became so low that even I, all 5 foot 1 of me, had to duck.
Eventually I found my way back to the central square, Piazzo Vittorio Emanuele (pictured above and at the top) and the restaurant where we were meeting up is just around the corner from here.
La Locanda di Zia Rosa
The charm of La Locanda di Zia Rosa is evident as soon as you enter with pretty, rustic plates on the walls and bottles hanging from the ceiling. In the back room a table was laid out for us. Wine flowed and dish after tasty dish of local produce appeared.
My favourite had to be the mushrooms with orecchiette, Puglia’s signature ear-shaped pasta. Our jovial host, Chef Mimmo Lopuzzo, had been out that morning picking wild mushrooms. They were divine.
Another firm favourite was the bombette, a local speciality of dainty meat parcels filled with mince, ham and cheese. Cisternino is well-known for its butchers, such as Alvecchio Fornello, where you can select your meat and watch it being barbecued as you sit at a nearby table. Olives and bread will be brought to you. Order a few side dishes and a bottle of the house red wine and you’ll soon be tucking in to a tasty treat.
Back at Locanda, our evening is drawing to an end but we can’t leave without trying some of the chef’s homemade liqueurs. Numerous intriguing bottles are placed in front of us but it’s the chocolate liqueur that really hits the spot for me. A little light-headed (I had to try them all) it’s time to go but I’ll never forget my evening in Cisternino.
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Thank you to GAL Valle D’Itria and GAL Alto Salento for hosting my visit to Puglia. While my accommodation, transport, meals and activities were all complimentary I will, as always, give you my unbiased and honest opinions.
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I just chanced upon your blog while researching for our upcoming trip to Puglia in May, which includes several days just outside of Cisternino. Lovely photos; can’t wait to see the town in person.
It’s a fabulous part of Italy and I know you will love it. I’ve a few posts about the area on my site so do have a look around. Have a really wonderful time.
The town looks like something out of a fairtytale. Your photos showing the white buildings bathed in blue and yellow light are so pretty. Those bombettes and the pasta look scrumptious. We’d love to visit Puglia – sigh…
I’m sure you will visit one day and you will love it!
What a lovely evening – the white marble of the buildings stands out in the moonlight. All those dishes sound delicious especially finishing with a chocolate liqueur
I’m so into this, Puglia has been on my bucket list for such a long time. Maybe 2016 will be the magic year to see these amazing little towns and walk through them in your footsteps.
I’m sure you’d take some lovely photos too. There’s so many lovely towns but Cisternino on is one of my favourites.
I would love to visit Puglia, it is a totally different and quieter side of Italy and one which you have captured so gorgeously in these photos – sold entirely!
This place looks so dreamy. I love the night photos. But food is always my favourite thing to see at any destination and I am totally solved – yum!
Cisternino had a big effect on me, too. I visited just for a short time one summer day. Walked, and walked, and walked just taking it all in. There were very few people, only a few locals, around. Memorable. I wish I’d had time to have a meal there. The food looks amazing.
I couldn’t believe how much they brought out not just the food but the drink too!!