How to spend the perfect day in Durham city centre

As the train pulled into the station the view across the rooftops of Durham immediately caught my eye. The sun was sinking low in the sky bathing the cathedral spires, castle walls and swathes of green trees in a golden light. I longed to hop off the train to explore the historic streets but my schedule wouldn’t allow it. When I finally returned, Durham proved well worth the wait. It’s a fabulous city with plenty to do both in Durham city centre and in the surrounding countryside. I didn’t have long in the city so while there I asked several locals, as well as my fellow bloggers, about the best things to see, do, eat and drink there. Here’s our guide to spending the perfect day in the city of Durham plus someone highlights from the many wonderful things to do a little further afield.

I visited Durham as a guest of This is Durham. All views and opinions are my own.

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How to spend the perfect day in Durham city centre

Watch the sunrise from Observatory Hill

If you like an early start to your day, one of the best places to see the sunrise is Observatory Hill, southwest of the city centre. It’s about a 25-minute walk from the cathedral. Follow the path across Prebends Bridge heading west and then south onto Quarryheads Lane. At the roundabout continue south onto Potters Lane. After about 150 metres a path on the right heads up to the hilltop view from where you can look back across the city.

Walk along the riverbank

If you can’t drag yourself out of bed in time for the sunrise, a walk along the riverbank by the River Wear as it winds it way around the city centre is another fine way to start your day and build up an appetite.

Starting at the Riverview Shopping Centre just south of the A690 on the west bank the river heads south passing the Framewellgate Bridge on Silver Street, with a backdrop of Durham Castle on the other bank of the river. A little further on Durham Cathedral comes into view.

The riverbanks are lined with trees and you’ll soon feel like you’ve left the city behind. Passing Prebands Bridge, continue along the path as it winds around the southern bend in the river.

At Kingsgate footbridge, cross the river to the opposite bank (which is now the west bank thanks to the bend in the river).

At Elvet Bridge turn left (passing the Tin of Sardines Gin Bar – see later) then turn right into Saddlers Street. Stop here for breakfast (see below) or head north to the historic square, Durham Market Place. Here turn left (east) into Silver Street which will lead you back to Framewellgate Bridge.

Breakfast at Flat White Kitchen

Either (or both) of these walks is the perfect way to start the day followed by a delicious breakfast back in Durham city centre. Flat White Kitchen at 40 Saddler Street serves some of the best coffee and breakfasts in town. Frustratingly though it doesn’t open until 9 am (or 10 am on Sundays). Just next door, at number 39, you’ll find Bill’s Restaurant which has the advantage of opening an hour earlier at 8 am.

Above: Queuing in the rain for a coffee from Flat White Kitchen

Explore Durham Castle

Fellow blogger, Kat from Biker Girl Life recommends a visit to Durham Castle and I’d have to agree with her there. In Kat’s words, here’s why.

“Durham Castle is right next door to Durham Cathedral, and the two together were awarded World Heritage Status in 1986.

The castle was commissioned by William the Conqueror and was one of the first fortified castles to be built as part of his campaign to ‘pacify the North’.

It’s built in the traditional style of Norman castles with a central tower, built on a high mound and surrounded by a walled enclosure. It remained as a centre of power for several hundred years, both to maintain control over the Scots, but later as the home of the Bishop of Durham

In 1837, the castle became part of the University of Durham and is now used as student accommodation, which is why all tours must be guided.

You book the tours at the University Library just outside the castle. Tours only take place during holiday time when the university is not ‘in session’. In summer, it’s best to book in advance as tours sell out. You’ll be enthralled by the architecture and the history (the oldest part of the castle was built in 1080). Don’t miss the Black Staircase, made out of dark oak and standing at 57 ft high. Incredibly, it used to be free-standing but is now supported by columns for safety.

Also, ask your guide (usually a current student) about the Bishop’s blessing and how he got to finally have a hot meal!” Kathryn Bird

Website: DurhamCastle
Address: Durham DH1 3RW
Cost: £5.00 Adults, Children 16 and under FREE
Parking: There is no parking at the castle. If you’re driving or motorcycling, the nearest public car park Prince Bishops Shopping Centre Car Park, postcode DH1 3UJ.

Durham Castle and Cathedral by Kat Biker Girl Life

Lunch at The Undercroft

The Undercroft Restaurant, in the cathedral, is the perfect place to stop for a light lunch. You can sit inside under the sweeping medieval arches or outside in the cloisters. The Undercroft Restaurant is open Monday to Saturday 10 am to 4 pm, and on Sunday from 12 noon to 4 pm. Tables can be booked by calling 0191 386 3721 or by emailing [email protected]. 

Visit Durham Cathedral

When I visited the cathedral, I was lucky enough to catch the Museum of the Moon installation at the cathedral but it’s a must-visit attraction even without the spectacular giant moon suspended at its heart. Here’s Kathryn from Wandering Bird’s take on the cathedral.

“As you walk around the city of Durham, you won’t be able to miss the incredible cathedral – it dominates the skyline in much of the city. But don’t just walk past, there are plenty of reasons to visit inside.

Durham Cathedral was built in 1093 at the request of William the Conqueror and is now on the UNESCO World Heritage list due to its historical and architectural importance.

The nave is thought to be the FIRST structural pointed arch in the world and it is the only cathedral in England to retain almost all the Norman workmanship, as well as the original layout and design of the cathedral.

Any Harry Potter fans, will be excited to learn that many of the scenes in the movies were filmed here. The cloister is where Harry let Hedwig free to fly, many of the covered walkways were used to film scenes between classes and the Chapter House is Professor McGonagall’s classroom.

Don’t miss the chance to climb up inside the tower – it may be 325 steps, but the views over the city make them all worthwhile.

There is no cost to enter the Cathedral but there is a suggested donation of £5 pp. You can also book guided tours and you need to pay to do the tower climb.” Kathryn Bird

Guided Tour: £7.50 per person £3.50 child £20 Family ticket (2 adults, 2 children)
Central Tower: £5.50 adult £2.50 child
Website: DurhamcCathedral.co.uk
Address: Durham Cathedral, Durham, DH1 3EP
Parking: There is no parking at the cathedral but you can use the ‘Park and ride ‘ from either the Belmont Car Park DH1 1SR, the Sniperly Car Park DH1 5RA or the Howlands Car Park DH1 3TQ. For a full list of Durham City Centre car parks visit Durham car parks<
Public transport: A hop-on-off bus runs between the bus/train stations and the cathedral. The nearest train station is Durham Station, 0.8 miles away.

Gin at Tin of Sardines Gin Bar

After all that walking, you’ll be in need of a pick me up and my favourite bar in Durham is the Tin of Sardines. Here Tabitha from Travel Compositions tells us more.

“Tin of Sardines Gin Bar is located on the edge of Durham’s Elvet Bridge. With under five tables and a hutch-like set-up for the bar counter, Tin of Sardines is labelled as Durham’s smallest gin bar and “probably the smallest gin bar in the world” as you’ll be packed into this quaint bar like a tin of…well…sardines!

But don’t let size fool you, This intimate bar’s shelves are stacked high with over 200 gins and 50 mixers from around the world. If you have a hard time deciding on a gin, have a knowledgeable dapper-vested “ginologist” concoct you a gin and tonic tailored to your taste preferences: dry, fruity, florally, citrusy, you name it they will accommodate it. Your cocktail can come in a variety of colours, garnished with fresh homegrown herbs and botanicals.

Day drinking is acceptable here as they open early afternoons, and the earlier the better as far as crowds go.” Tabitha

Above: Riverside walk in Durham city centre at night