Walking along the seafront at Kamari on the east coast of Santorini, I hear someone singing, an older voice, soft and sweet. Dressed all in black, as is the tradition for widows, her face shaded from the sunshine by a wide-brimmed straw hat, the singer, Irini, returns my smile. She sits at a vantage point so as to watch the comings and goings at her restaurant of the same name. A waiter calls to us “We’ve live music tonight and the best food in Kamari!” We assure him we’ll return.
Later that day my sister and I wander along the lovely prom that runs adjacent to the black volcanic sand beach back to Irini’s. As I tuck into a tasty pot of mousakka, Adonis and Vagelis play a bouzouki and a violin. Irini joins in singing from time to time, interspersed with a smile and a nod to the occasional passerby. And then she is dancing, slowly moving to the gentle beat. I get up, I can’t resist the music. Holding hands we dance.
The next day Irini and I have a wonderful chat, sitting outside her restaurant, under the shade of a tamarisk tree, as a salty breeze softens the heat of the day.
She has quite a tale to share and I’m curious to know what Kamari was like when she opened her restaurant nearly fifty years ago.
When first married Irini left the island to work in Athens, saving hard so that she could buy her husband a car, the first on the island, she tells me. Before they know it this investment turns into a taxi business driving around the island along dirt tracks designed for donkeys. In the 60s the first tourists start to arrive on Santorini, mainly students including Germans and English, sleeping on the beaches. Occasionally Americans also visit, returning to the island they remembered from the war.
In 1965 Irini rents a small building off the local fishermen, by the beach with a dramatic backdrop of the massive rock, Mesa Vouno, rising out from the sea. Here she opens the first restaurant in Kamar selling local food such as seasonal salads, stifado, moussaka, fava and domatokeftedes, a speciality of the island. These delicious fritters are made with tomatoes, for which the island is well-known, courgettes and onions plus flour and a variety of herbs, most often mint.
The first hotels followed in the 70s. The builders, with big appetites, flocked to Irini’s and the restaurant thrived. If someone in the village had a special occasion to celebrate such as a wedding, they’d celebrate it at Irini’s.
I was surprised to hear that up until then they had no electricity or running water, both of which didn’t come to Kamari until 1972, all thanks to Irini I’m told. She even built the lovely cobbled promenade in front of us, quite literally. And I can well believe it. She’s an indomitable lady.
Irini goes on to reminisce about the esteemed patrons she has fed over the years, including the country’s former President Konstantinos Karamanlis, the shipping magnate Onassis, the silent screen star Charlie Chaplin and a pelican with a broken wing that simply arrived one day and stayed, becoming a regular sight by Irini’s side, she tells me.
Sitting in the dappled sunshine we look through some old photo albums. She shows me images of the restaurant, herself, family and friends, her pelican, Charlie Chaplin… What better way to spend a sunny Sunday afternoon on Santorini, than chatting with Mama Irini?
For more information about Irini’s Restaurant (and rooms) please visit their website.
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A lovely story, indeed!
Mama Irini is still sitting in front of her taverna, looking friendly around and is excited, if someone comes to appreciate her. I visited Kamari June 2018 the third time (first time 1979) and made shake hands and some conversations with Irini (one of her sons helped to translate). Irini is so warm-hearted as the pictures indicate!
Thanks so much for letting me know, Jojo. I do hope I get to go back one day. Such a magical island.
I too visited kamari in 2017 and again this year (2019) in August and I’m glad to say mama irini is still there singing and waving at people walking past her restaurant
That’s great to hear Lee. Thanks for the update!
Hey Kathryn
How wonderful to read Mama Irini’s story.
We visited Santorini – Kamari – a month ago, and she is still sitting outside her restaurant saying hello to everybody. We had lunch at Taverna Irini’s two times – it’s really a lovely place.
Best wishes
Lene
Hi there Lene. Lovely to hear she is still there. I think they celebrated the taverna’s 50th birthday this year. Glad you enjoyed it too.
I am from Greece and I was always thinking I should visit Santorini, but itineraries to other places were keeping me away..You made me start organising myself again to make this trip come true, thanks so much for sharing this story!
That’s great to hear. You really should go. Ihope you get there soon.
Hi how lovely to see mama irini we said good morning every day on my visit to kamari in sept 2020. I will sit and chat next year as I’ve already booked up to visit
What an amazing memory from visiting a place – this brings alive a visit like you could never plan! Amazing you could spend so much time with her learning about her life
She seemed such a character when I first met her that I couldn’t resist asking if I could come back the next day for a proper chat.
The sort of person I would want to send a Christmas card to and become pen pals with!
Storytelling is such a wonderful way to learn about a place. This is the traditional way we passed on important stories and events to younger family members and others in the community. I think you were very fortunate to have spent that time with Irini. The photos also serve as a superb record of the history of the place and her life.I can’t quite get over the pelican 🙂
You know from my posts Kat that I am a sucker for old photographs. What a gift you were given to be able to have this conversation and experience with Mama Irini. This is what traveling is all about for me, connecting with the locals and your beautiful account allows me to feel like I was there with you. Thanks!
Thanks Alison. It was wonderful to meet such an inspiring lady.
wow! What a story Mama Irina has to tell! Kamari sounds magical then – and still looks magical today. You make us want to go back to Santorini!
What a beautiful and mesmerising story! I soaked up every word. You get a real feel for how hard Irini has worked over the years and how much pride she takes in her work.If I make it to Santorini, I would love to visit the restaurant 🙂
There are loads of restaurants to choose from along the beach but the atmosphere here, especially when they have live music, is really special.
How fascinating to see the changes over the years and see the photos to go with it. It is really nice to get the history from a local
What a fascinating history and lovely photos to go with it.
How fascinating and what a lovely story of Mama Irini’s life. Conversations with local people like this are what really make travel a wonderful experience.
It was so lovely to meet her and have the chance to hear her story.