Sleepy meandering waterways, rolling green hills where tea and spices grow, miles and miles of beautiful coastline and bustling cosmopolitan cities, Kerala is an enticing land of colourful contrasts, and this is equally true of its cuisine. It’s been many years since I visited but I will never forget the sights, sounds and flavours of this beautiful state in southern India.

Below: the green hills of Kerala’s tea plantations, Travel With Kat

My fellow blogger, Dr Ashley Antony, has travelled around India since she was young. Now a researcher living in Kochi in Kerala, she writes the family travel blog, Plan Ashley Go. Her guide to Kerala food brings back so many wonderful memories. Read on to get a taste (pun intended) of what to expect when you visit Kerala, with this in-depth guide to Kerala cuisine, its must-try dishes and where to find them.

Kerala Cuisine

Kerala cuisine celebrates the values and ethos of the land and its people, particularly, its adaptability and inclusivity. Through the years, many influences have moulded and shaped its culinary culture to bring us the vibrant food scene we enjoy today.

As the spice centre of the world, Kerala has welcomed international traders since antiquity. These merchants, most notably the Portuguese and the Persians, brought with them their food, culture, and religions. Between centuries of trade exchange and colonial history, Kerala evolved and perfected its cuisine. Fort Kochi, with its historic trading port, is the perfect place to witness this cosmopolitan culture, be that its food, lifestyle, or art.

In Kerala, you will broadly see three different types of food cultures — the native cuisine, the Malabar cuisine, and the Syrian Christian cuisine.  The native cuisine is predominantly the Hindu tradition that Kerala acquired from the neighbouring states of Tamil Nadu and Karnataka. The Malabar cuisine originated in northern Kerala, combining native traditions with influences from trade relations with the Arabic countries. The Syrian Christian cuisine emerged in central Kerala merging native traditions with European colonial influences.

The land’s geography also played its part in shaping Kerala’s cuisine. In olden times, travelling between Kerala and its adjoining states by road was challenging due to the hilly terrains of the Western Ghats that seem to isolate Kerala. As a result, hyper-local varieties of raw materials like bananas and rice became the star of several famous Kerala dishes.

And of course, being a coastal state with easy access to the sea from almost all regions, it’s not surprising that Kerala is the biggest consumer of fish in India. Some of its must-try dishes are seafood specialities.

3 Must-Have Food Experiences in Kerala

As a Keralite myself (residing in Kochi), I have travelled the length and breadth of Kerala. The three places I strongly associate with food in Kerala are Fort Kochi, Jew Street, and Kuttanad.

Kochi, the cultural capital of Kerala, has always fascinated me with its vibrant culinary scenes. Fort Kochi, with its Chinese fishing net, fishing boats, and bustling fish market, celebrates Kerala’s coastal culture. As I stroll the Fort Kochi Beach Promenade at sunset, I can see the fishing boats making their way back to the shore. The fishermen at the dock could be seen handling the gigantic fishing net and gathering the catch of the day. The vendors of the fish market shout the names and rates of their stock in Malayalam (Kerala’s native language) trying to attract local customers.

A little further from Fort Kochi and just across the backwaters, I can smell the pungent aroma of spices from the market that line Jew Street. This colourful lane in Kochi has kept the spice trade legacy of Kerala alive. The street presents a rich scene with stores selling antiques, spices, and Arabian perfumes competing with artsy cafes for your attention. The contrasts I see in Fort Kochi and Jew Street complete the sensory experiences of Kochi’s food culture.

If the sights and sounds of Kochi reflect the coastal and colonial legacy of Kerala, Alappuzha paints a rustic picture of village life. A 4-hour houseboat ride from Kochi takes me to the outskirts of Alappuzha. From here, if I take a canoe ride, I can reach Kuttanad, the “rice bowl of Kerala.” Kuttanad is a beautiful agricultural village with acres of paddy fields spread all around, separated by small water canals crisscrossing between them. A stroll through the narrow passages takes me to the islands where the local villagers grow bananas and tapioca.

As I take you through my recommendations of the must-try dishes of Kerala, you will see that the smells and sights of Fort Kochi, Jew Street, and Kuttanad dominate Kerala’s culinary scene.

Below: A canoe ride along the Kerala backwaters, Travel With Kat

Must Try Kerala Breakfasts

Breakfast in Kerala is often a rice-based carb with some kind of protein. Coconut, in the form of oil, milk, or shavings, appears in almost every Kerala breakfast item.

1. Puttu and Kadala Curry (Vegan)

Puttu and kadala curry is a staple breakfast of Kerala that you must try at least once on your trip. Puttu is a cylindrical steam cake, made of rice powder with layers of coconut shavings in a mould called “puttu kutty.” This mildly flavoured, fluffy dish is then paired with kadala curry, a yummy gravy of black chickpeas cooked in spices and coconut paste.

Every household in Kerala prepares puttu almost once a week, however, as you travel across the state, you will find people relishing it differently from region to region. For example, in the southern regions of Kerala like Trivandrum and Kollam, you will find puttu being paired with steamed green grams, banana, and pappad. I am a central Kerala-based Christian. In my house, puttu is often paired with spicy beef or chicken curry. Basically, there is no limit to how much you can experiment with puttu!

If you choose a Kerala homestay, you will get to experience the many shades of a traditional puttu breakfast. However, if you wish to try professional twists to puttu, I would recommend you visit Dhe Puttu in Kochi, an upscale restaurant dedicated to puttu.

2. Idiyappam and Fish Moilee (Non-Vegetarian)

Idiyappam and fish moilee is another of Kerala’s most loved breakfasts that is also loved by Western travellers. Idiyappam is made from rice flour pressed into noodle-like strands and then steamed. It’s known for its light and airy texture, which makes it a perfect base for soaking up flavourful curries. Fish moilee is a mildly spiced fish curry cooked in coconut milk, enriched with the flavours of green chillies, turmeric, and curry leaves.

Idiyappam is also known as “noolputtu” in Kerala, which means “thread-like puttu.” You will find idiyappam to be a staple breakfast in Tamil and Sri Lankan culture as well. It is not clear as to where exactly this dish originated, but Keralites did a great job in pairing it with fish moilee, another Portuguese-inspired curry.

3. Piddiyum Kozhiyum (Non-Vegetarian)

Piddiyum Kozhiyum is a traditional Christian breakfast dish that originated in central Kerala. Pidi are small, round rice and grated coconut dumplings cooked in coconut milk. The mildly sweet and chewy rice balls in the gooey coconut milk is had with a spicy Kerala-style chicken curry. “Kozhi” is the Malayalam word for “chicken,” so pidiyum kozhiyum means “pidi and chicken.”

Pidi is a tricky dish to make so you will not find many restaurants serving it. I usually prepare it at home only for special occasions like Christmas and Easter.

If you wish to try pidi and kozhi in Kerala, I would recommend Palaaram Restaurant in Kochi as they specialize in Syrian Christian cuisine.

4. Appam and Stew (Vegan or Meat)

One of the most popular Kerala breakfasts is appam and stew. Appam is a fermented rice and ground coconut paste pancake with a mild sweet flavour. Appam has a soft, spongy centre and a brown, crispy lace. The stew is a creamy and rich gravy with vegetables, chicken, or mutton. This side is a powerhouse of flavours with coconut milk as the base and aromatic spices like cinnamon, cloves, and star anise.

While appam is a completely native dish, the Kerala stew is a result of a combination of central Kerala’s Syrian Christian cooking technique with Portuguese flavours. This creamy side dish was named “stew” with the arrival of the British. But locally, the people of Kerala fondly call it “ishtu,” a modification of the English word that also means “love” in Malayalam.

If you are looking for vegan options, I would recommend the vegetable stew with appam. This dish is made by slow-cooking steamed potatoes and carrots in coconut milk, making it a perfect vegan curry.

Below: Chicken stew with appam pancakes, Plan Ashley Go

Must Try Kerala Main Course Dishes

The main course dishes of Kerala combine the various facets of Kerala culture – Malabar, Hindu, Syrian Christian, and coastal.

5. Malabar Biryani (Meat or Fish)

Every state of India has its variety of biryani, and Kerala takes pride in its very own Malabar biryani! Made with short-grain Kaima rice that is lighter and more fragrant than the basmati rice used in other biryani varieties, Malabar biryani is loved for its lower spice level. That means any foreign tourist can enjoy a Malabar biryani without breaking into a sweat.

This aromatic dish packs a punch of flavours with a blend of spices, ghee, cashews, raisins, and a generous amount of fried onion. Malabar biryani is also known as Thalassery biryani as it developed in the northern region of Thalassery in Kerala. Malabar biryani is typically accompanied by a sweet pickle of dates, a coconut-mint chutney, pappad, and raitha (yoghurt). You can get Malabar biryani in protein variations of chicken, mutton, beef, and even fish.

Below: Malabar BIryani, Plan Ashley Go

6. Porotta and Beef Curry (Meat)

Porotta and beef curry is a must-try, beloved combination of Kerala. The porotta is a type of flaky, layered flatbread made from maida (refined flour). The cooking requires skilful kneading and flipping, like that of a pizza, to achieve its characteristic texture. The beef curry is made with a blend of spices, onions, and tomatoes, and cooked in coconut oil.

Porotta originated in northern Kerala during World War II, when the British colonialists exported the entire rice cultivation from India and left the natives looking for alternatives to fill their stomachs. Porotta soon spread to every region of Kerala and even to the neighbouring states. Today porotta is Kerala’s most loved street food and an all-day dish.

Below: Porotta with beef curry, Plan Ashley Go

7. Karimeen Pollichathu (Fish)

Karimeen Pollichathu is a classic Kerala dish featuring the pearl spot fish (karimeen), which is native to the backwaters of Kerala. The fish is marinated with spices, wrapped in banana leaves, and then grilled or pan-fried, resulting in a smoky, flavourful dish. The banana leaf not only imparts a unique flavour to the fish but also keeps it moist and tender.

The karimeen pollichathu is an integral part of Kerala’s backwater experience, especially in Alappuzha, where it is served on the houseboat along with Kerala’s very own palm wine, toddy. You can savour this dish while you gently sway on the houseboat exploring Alappuzha’s natural beauty.

Due to its popularity and the role it plays in Kerala’s tourism initiatives, karimeen was declared the state fish of Kerala in 2010. Karimeen pollichathu is generally spicy, but the cooks on houseboats are very used to adjusting the spice level according to the palate of their guests. The best part is that, while on a houseboat, you get to catch the fish using fishing rods and the cook prepares this fresh catch right on the boat.

8. Kappa and Fish Curry (Fish)

If you believe you have a great spice tolerance level, I dare you to try kappa and fish curry in Kerala! Kappa is tapioca or cassava, that is boiled and mashed and then mixed with a spiced coconut paste. The fish curry is made with red chilli powder, tangerine, and a variety of spices.

Kappa reached the shores of Kerala from Portugal in the 16th century. This was another rice alternative that the Keralites adopted to fight hunger in World War II. From that time to the 1970s, kappa was the food of the labour class as it is a starchy root vegetable, high in calories. Over time, it became a staple in Kerala households, especially the Christians of central Kerala.#

9. Sadya (Vegetarian)

A visit to Kerala is incomplete without trying sadya, the traditional feast of Kerala. A sadya is an elaborate vegetarian meal with 24-30 varieties of dishes served on a banana leaf to be had with a special rice of Kerala called “matta.” The Matta rice has nutritional benefits similar to brown rice, making it a healthier choice than your regular white rice. Some of the essential dishes in a sadya are parippu, sambar, rasam, avial, thoran, olan, pickles and payasam.

A typical Malayali eats a sadya on special occasions like Kerala’s regional festivals of Onam (August-September) and Vishu (April). We always sit on the floor with our legs crossed to eat sadya on these festivals as per our traditions.

Apart from festivals, sadya is also served at Hindu weddings across Kerala. Several vegetarian restaurants across Kerala serve Kerala sadya with over fifteen dishes, but if you can get yourself invited to a Hindu wedding, that will give you the best experience of a full-fledged sadya.

Below: a banana leaf of traditional Sadya, Shutterstock

Must Try Kerala Snacks and Quick Bites

While coconut dominates, most of Kerala’s dishes, when it comes to snacks, native varieties of banana shine as the hero ingredient.

10. Unniyappam (Vegan)

Unniyappam is a popular snack from Kerala, known for its sweet and slightly crispy exterior with a soft, spongy interior. These small, round fritters are made from a batter of rice flour, jaggery, ripe bananas, and grated coconut. The batter is poured into a special pan with multiple cavities and fried in ghee or oil, which gives unniyappam its characteristic shape and golden-brown colour.

it is not just a snack but also holds cultural significance in Kerala. Unniyappam is served as prasadam (holy offering) in temples as blessings.

If you want to try the best unniyappams in Kerala, you should visit traditional Kerala bakeries in markets where they make unniyappams live in front of you. Hot unniyappams taste divine and you will lose count while gobbling them down.

11. Pazham Pori (Vegan)

Pazham Pori, also known as “ethakka appam,” is Kerala’s most beloved tea-time snack. This dish is made by dipping long slices of nendran banana in a batter of all-purpose flour, rice flour, and sugar, and then deep-frying them until golden brown.

You will get this in almost every Kerala bakery, tea shop, and even railway station. Pazham pori is particularly popular during the monsoon months when we make it in-house to enjoy the monsoon vibe with a hot cup of tea.

12. Banana Chips (Vegan)

Banana chips, or crisps as you’d call them in the UK, are one of Kerala’s most famous snacks, often associated with the state’s abundant banana cultivation. They are thin slices of banana deep-fried to a crispy and crunchy consistency with a pinch of salt and turmeric. Some bakeries fry them in coconut oil to add a distinct flavour and aroma.

Banana chips are so integral to the Kerala culture that when we leave Kerala to go to another part of India or the world, we always carry a packet or two of banana chips. Kerala’s banana chips are so popular that even foreign tourists buy packets of it to take back home.

These crisps are traditionally made from a special variety of banana called Nendran, which is unique to Kerala. You cannot make it right with any other banana variant.

Below: Kerala banana chips, Plan Ashley Go

Must Try Kerala Desserts

The three must-try Kerala desserts I have here are true reflections of Kerala’s legacy of embracing modernity while holding on to its true essence.

13. Payasam (Vegan, Vegetarian)

Payasam is a quintessential Kerala dessert associated with celebration and prosperity. It is a must-have in regional festivals, weddings, and other special occasions and is an integral part of sadya. Some temples in Kerala have payasam as holy offerings.

Payasam is a type of sweet porridge, made by slow-cooking milk or coconut milk with rice, vermicelli, lentils, or broken wheat.  Either sugar or jaggery is added as the sweetener.

There are several varieties of payasam and a typical Hindu wedding serves two or more payasams at a wedding. Some of the most popular versions include ada pradhaman (rice flakes jaggery, and coconut milk), palada payasam (rice flakes, sugar, and milk), and palpayasam (rice, sugar, and milk).

If you are looking for vegan payasams, I would recommend ada pradhaman and cherupayar payasam.

14. Elaneer Pudding (Vegetarian)

Elaneer Pudding is a modern Kerala dessert that rebrands Kerala’s love for coconut. “Elaneer” means tender coconut in Malayalam, and this pudding is made from the soft, delicate flesh of tender coconuts, mixed with coconut water, condensed milk, and powdered sugar. The mixture is then chilled to set into a smooth, creamy pudding.

Elaneer pudding has a sweet and refreshing flavour that captures the essence of Kerala’s tropical bounty. This dessert became so popular in Kerala that the region’s Christian population has now started including it in wedding banquets.

15. Kozhikode Halwa (Vegan)

Kozhikode halwa, pictured below, is a famous sweet delicacy from the city of Kozhikode (Calicut) in northern Kerala. This chewy, glossy treat is made from flour, sugar, and coconut oil, with variations that include coconut, nuts, or fruits. Kozhikode halwa is very different from the halwa you find in northern India which is soft, gooey, and very sweet. It is firm enough to be sliced like a cake and is only mildly sweet.

Kozhikode halwa is inspired by the Persian halwa and is believed to have reached Calicut through trade exchanges in the 1700s. Through slow cooking and constant stirring, the pioneers of Kozhikode halwa experimented with different fruits and nuts to develop an assortment of flavours. To this day, Kozhikode halwa is a major attraction of Calicut and the town has an entire street, SM Street (Sweet Meat Street), dedicated to this confectionary.

SM Street is, perhaps, the only food street of Kerala. I love visiting SM Street for its intoxicating aroma of brightly coloured halwa blocks stacked one above the other. The shops let to try free samples of different flavours to help you pick your favourites. I find it very difficult to pick just one, so usually end up buying smaller quantities of different flavours.

Below: Colourful slabs of halwa on a market stall, Plan Ashley Go

5 Iconic Restaurants of Kerala

Kerala’s vibrant cuisine is best experienced in its finest restaurants. Here are the top 5 iconic restaurants of Kerala that you must visit to experience Kerala cuisine at its best:

Paragon Restaurant

Paragon Restaurant is, perhaps, the most renowned restaurant in Kerala, serving authentic Malabar cuisine through its many outlets spread across Kerala and the Middle East. Established in 1939, this restaurant is ranked the 5th most legendary restaurant in the world by Taste Atlas, a Croatia-based online food guide.

Restaurant Chef Pillai

Restaurant Chef Pillai is an iconic restaurant by the British-trained celebrity chef, Suresh Pillai. This restaurant offers modern twists to traditional Kerala dishes to elevate them to fine dining standards. Chef Pillai set up his first restaurant in Kochi and now his restaurant chain is spread across south India and UAE.

Kashi Art Café, Fort Kochi

Kashi Art Café in Fort Kochi is a unique art-themed boutique café popular among art lovers and foodies alike. This café was established in 1989 by an art collector who played a significant role in establishing Kochi as the art centre of Kerala. Kashi Art Café offers a fusion of Keralan and continental cuisine and an assortment of freshly brewed coffee.

Villa Maya Trivandrum

Villa Maya is a fine dining restaurant in Trivandrum housed in a beautifully restored 18th-century Dutch manor. This restaurant specializes in a fusion of Kerala, Mediterranean, and Asian cuisines. In 2023, Villa Maya won awards in several categories in the Haute Grandeur Global Restaurant Awards. It is also on Trip Advisor’s list of Top 10 Fine Dining Restaurants in India.

Ginger House Restaurant

Ginger House Restaurant in Kochi is India’s first and only museum restaurant. With a view of Kerala’s backwaters and antiques placed aesthetically around you, this restaurant offers an elegant dining experience like no other. The restaurant offers both Keralan and international cuisine along with alcoholic beverages.

Author, Dr Ashley Anton

Dr Ashley Antony is a researcher living in Kochi, Kerala. Born to travel-loving parents, they explored the length and breadth of India throughout her most informative years.

In 2018 she was awarded the ICSSR Doctoral Fellowship by the Indian Council of Social Science Research, New Delhi. She graduated in 2022 with a Ph.D. in English Literature from Pondicherry University.

In her spare time, she puts her research skills to good use by writing an informative and colourful family travel blog, Plan Ashley Go, sharing her vast knowledge and love of her home country to help you plan the perfect holiday in India.