Squelch, squelch, squelch. Squeals of joy. Stomp, stomp, stomp on the grapes. I can’t help laughing too as I watch the giggling children eagerly treading grapes in two huge barrels in a race to see which team can produce the most juice in the fastest time. I’m in Locorotondo in southern Italy on a road trip around Puglia and it is grape harvest time.
We arrived at the Gara di Pigiatura, an annual festival celebrating the grape harvest, just in time to catch the last round of this traditional game. Which team won I can’t be certain, but the youngsters in the right-hand barrel seem to cheer the loudest so I’m guessing they are the victors.
Ladies are busy cooking frittelle, deep-fried turnovers stuffed with cheese. A gentleman with the most fabulous of beards drives families around in a horse and cart, just for fun. And now that the games are over, the music strikes up and dancers in their red, black and white traditional costumes are getting ready to perform.
Earlier that day everyone had joined in with the harvesting of the grapes accompanied by traditional music, followed by a typical local lunch before the games began in the afternoon.
Masseria Aprile, where the Gara di Pigiatura is held, has been in the same family since it was built in the early 1700s. It’s famous for its wine, made from sweet white grapes, as well as the extra virgin olive oil that it produces.
A typical agriturismo, it was renovated in keeping with its heritage in 1992, and is now a B&B, as well as a working farm. There are just 6 guest rooms here, and each one is named after the building’s original function. Casaro is where cheese was made, Fienile was the barn, and so on. The current owner, Anna Maria Aprile, was delighted to show us around. Surrounded by vineyards and olive groves at the foot of the lovely, white-washed town of Locorotondo, I could easily see myself staying at this masseria in one of the enchanting trulli, the traditional round dwellings with conical roofs found throughout the Itria Valley in Puglia.
Sadly, we can’t stay long, as Locorotondo is waiting to be explored. This pretty hill-top town is connected to Bari (one of two international airports in Puglia) by train so is easy to get to. It is officially a Borghi più belli d’Italia, one of the most beautiful villages in Italy.
Locorotondo literally means round place. It takes this name from the circular old town, a wonderful maze of white-washed alleyways lined with historic buildings; the perfect place for an early evening stroll before dinner.
St George’s Church, the beautiful neoclassical, nineteenth century building dominates the main square, with St George on horseback looking down over the town.
As we explore we pass a sign for I Pastini, a famous wine producer that we are going to visit during our stay for a spot of wine tasting.
Soon we are on our way again, headed for another agriturismo where a feast awaits us. Cheeses, cold cuts, octopus, focaccia bread, mashed fava beans… I can see we are not going to go hungry on this visit to Valle d’Itria. It brought back many happy memories of a previous visit to the area and Polignano a mare and tomorrow we are off to discover another lovely village, Cisternino. Read this post to learn more about Puglian cuisine.
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Thank you to GAL Valle D’Itria and GAL Alto Salento for hosting me on my visit to Puglia. While my accommodation, transport, meals and activities were all complimentary I will, as always, give you my unbiased and honest opinions.
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Hi Kate, I like this article about the wine festival. Can you suggest what time of the year is best to visit to make the most of it?
Hey Agness! How are you? It’s been far too long since I popped by your blog.
The grapes are harvested at the end of September/ beginning of October. I expect the exact dates vary with the weather each year. It’s a good time of year to go in general being slightly offseason. I would have thought October was perfect for the still warm but not too hot weather and fewer tourists.
Off to check out what’s happening in your world now.
Kate, your first picture looks like Summer overlooking a balcony with petunias!? Summer being a gorgeous time for flowers-as all the pictures around Amalfi show.
We were there many years ago on a bus tour in December. Things were a bit dismal. As my husband wishes to avoid the heavy tourist season.- I’m wondering when to travel ? The harvest pictures I presume are Autumn and you mention little local festivals.
As I’m planning a trip to Italy including Cinqueterre and Florence with Lucca, Alberobello and this Locorotondo looks great too: Can you be more specific as to the best time – month to visit. When is the grape crushing. Is this after all the leaves have disappeared from the vines?
We saw the vineyards in France in September so I’m looking for something a bit different. Any advise would help. Many thanks
Hi Robyn, Actually all these photos were taken at the beginning of October. I’m pretty sure that the leaves would still mostly be on the grape vines then. It’s a wonderful time of year to visit, not too hot or busy if you want to do plenty of site seeing. I would suggest spring is also a great time to go but I couldn’t say which month in particular. I suggest you visit the blog, Browsing Italy. She is the real expert. You’ve chosen some adorable places to visit there. Cinque Terre and Luca are two of my favourite places to visit in Italy. And Locorotondo is well worth a visit too. Lovely town. Have a wonderful time whatever you decide to do. Kathryn
Making grapes look like a blast!
Very nice article and awesome photos dear. I love local festivals and we had a lot of fun time. It was great to meet you.
Thanks! It was great discovering Puglia with you too Kemal. And very interesting too. Great group of bloggers.
Reading your words and looking at the fantastic pictures, I can’t understand why Puglia isn’t more popular. I went to Polignano a Mare after reading your story a few years ago – now this ants me to go back to see Locorotondo. Grazie!
Now where else can I tempt you to go 😉
Awesome to see traditional festivals still going strong and to be a part of it. Great quality photos, looks like a beautiful spot.
Thanks Aaron. Puglia provides many lovely things to photograph 🙂
I love local festivals that bring communities and generations together to celebrate like this. This type of rustic food and the walled hilltop towns are some of my favourite things about Italy – and I’ve a real hankering to stay in a little trulli one day 🙂
Great pics!! I’d love to go there someday!
I love Puglia ever since I first visited earlier this year. Now I have another excuse to return.
Autumn is a great time to visit after the crowds have left and I love these little festivals.
Small festivals after the tourist crowds have gone are generally better because they are not there for the tourists but for the locals
The stuff of dreams, Kat. Looks fabulous 🙂
The festival was great fun and Locorotondo was beautiful 🙂