In just a few days time I’ll be off on the adventure of a lifetime cruising with Hurtigruten in the Arctic circle but I have a confession to make – I don’t like cruises! Not that I have ever been on one you understand – I have just never liked the idea of them.
When I travel I want to experience the country I’m in or passing through, not lounge around on a totally unconnected ship. I want to eat local food in locally owned restaurants, not eat random cuisine onboard said ship. I want my money to go into the local economy, not some foreign multi-national. And no I don’t mind changing hotels every other day or so, unpacking and repacking as I go! Hang on a minute …actually I do mind and just recently the thought of a cruise has started to sound rather more appealing. Is it my age (I counted a few more gray hairs and some extra wrinkles this morning) or is it that cruises are changing, becoming more aware of responsible tourism issues?
Is a Hurtigruten cruise any different from my preconceptions?
Rewind back to the 19th century, the coast around Norway is a rich fishing ground yet with few light houses and unreliable maritime maps it’s extremely difficult and dangerous to navigate. Sea Captain Richard With and his friend, Anders Holthe, took on the challenge to produce detailed maps of the area and in 1893 Captain With’s steamer, DS Vesteraalen, started operating regular services linking southern Norway to the north of the country.
Hurtigruten, meaning ‘the fast route’ in Norwegian, was born.
DS Vesteraalen 1893 © Hurtigrutemuseet
Not only did this offer Norwegians a fast and safe way to travel around their country, it enabled important supplies to be delivered to previously hard to reach towns and villages in the north.
121 years later, Hurtigruten ships still provide these essential services with a fleet of 11 ships. Daily departures from Bergen in the south sail to Kirkness in the north stopping at numerous ports along the way.
MS Richard With © Winfried Rosen
Now, as well as a transport system for locals and supplies, the Hurtigruten fleet offers cruises to travellers wishing to experience the Norwegian Arctic and see the Northern Lights in the winter and the midnight sun in summer.
In just a few days time I’ll be joining the MS Richard With (named after the company’s founder) in Tromsø, north of the Arctic circle for my first ever cruise experience. While it’s not quite the epic adventure that my grandmother took travelling alone, by boat, from England to China in the twenties, it will still be a very new and exciting experience for me. I’m really looking forward to discovering what life on-board is like. Will I feel trapped or will I enjoy simply relaxing as the world floats past. We’ll see!
One thing that is often criticised about cruises in general is how little they benefit the local people of the countries they visit.
Hurtigruten are very much part of the local cultural and have been for a long time! They strive to give their guests an authentic local experience, through which they can discover the real Norway. One focus is the incorporation of local produce and cuisine into the on-board menus.
While guests still eat on the ship, 85% of supplies on-board are sourced in Norway. They are currently working on a new initiative to use even more local suppliers, however, a problem that small-scale producers face is being able to supply the large quantities needed by the ships. Hurtigruten, in partnership with Innovation Norway, are looking at how they can help such businesses to expand (and employ more people) so that they can regularly supply the ships.
© Simen G. Fangel
In the very near future signs will be used to inform guests that the prawns, for example, were loaded straight from the fishing boats onto the ship in the port just visited or that the lamb being served is from ‘Johan’s farm’ just two miles away. A great idea!
I’m really looking forward to discovering Norway and Norwegian cuisine and finally finding out for myself whether cruising is or is not for me!
Whom I kidding? I’m going to love it!
Find out more about my Norwegian adventures including my ride with the huskies across frozen fjords, a photo walk around Tromsø and see my Norwegian Arctic Highlights.
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Wonderful article thank you
I’d never really thought of cruising as the type of trip I’d like to take either but am hopefully going to give it a go this summer, so will be interesting to see how it goes! Look forward to reading more about your adventures in this part of the world.
Check out our Spring movie http://vimeo.com/53954733
Puffins! I’ve never seen a puffin 🙂
Hi Kat! Really impressed by your research. And you are quite right, you have an adventure waiting for you. Be sure not to miss driving dog sleigh or one of our scooter safaris. In Kirkenes the Ice hotell is still vibrant. And if you dare, cut some Cod tongues and say hello to the Cardinal…
If you want a visual impression of Hurtigruten, check out #hurtigruten and #hurtigruta on Instagram. Over 15 000 pic´s!
Cheers
Anders, Hurtigruten
Just been looking at the pictures and I’m now even more excited! Can’t wait to meet the huskies and I’m looking forward to seeing the ice hotel – it’s always fascinated me.
But what is this about Cod tongues and Cardinals!?! I’m sure it will become clear very soon.
“…I’m so excited…. and I just can’t hide it…”
You’ll have a great time, Kat!
I’m not one for lounging around either, but as someone who has spent three months on a ship, I can say that there are some amazing experiences to be had out on the water.
Looking forward to hearing all about it!
Gosh! 3 months – I can’t imagine that. I’ll stick to this short trip first but who knows what I might get up to in the future!!?
I’m looking forward to your adventures too, with some amount of envy I might add! It’s good that Hurtigruten is dedicated to one country which means that Norway’s local communities will benefit from the cruise too. Enjoy your trip 🙂
Thanks Suzanne. Not long to go now! Bit worried I might go into excitement overload!
Do Hurtigruten have ships dedicated to cruising the Norwegian coast, or do ‘leisure cruisers’ have to share with the ‘regular’ trade? I ask because, if the latter, stays in port may be limited, & not really allow as long as you’d maybe like,
Looking forward to your (and Zoe’s and Barbara’s) reports.
Yes, most of the stops will be very brief (and some in the middle of the night) but that is why I like it – it’s a working ship not just there for our pleasure! And it is all very clear in the itinerary. I’m really looking forward to enjoying the scenery from the boat as well as the land excursions we’ve planned. I hope you enjoy our posts Keith.
This is so cool and I love their mission to help the economy. I hope you have a fabulous trip!
Thanks Shavanna. I’m sure I will!
I felt the same way about cruises. My sister did also but then out of the blue she went on one…and loved it. Like yours it was not your average caribbean carnival so that probably has something to do with it. Loved the style of writing. Thanks.
Thanks TIm. Although this is just a short trip, I’m looking forward to finding out for myself.
Always the best way to go about things. Best of luck and really hope you have some great stories to tell.
Very jealous! I read a travel story from Simon Calder in the independent last year. He took his family on a Hurtigruten cruise along the Norwegian Coast and loved it. I was hoping to be the first blogger to emulate his trip but it looks like you’ll beat me to it – enjoy!
Sorry Richard! Hope you make it there very soon for your own Arctic adventure. In the meantime I hope you enjoy following ours.
I hate cruising too but I agree Hurtigruten is the right cruise company to lose a “cruise virginity” 🙂 Can’t wait to read about your cruise experiences!
Thanks Tina! I’m so excited and looking forward to sharing it with you. 🙂